I have quite a number of victorian "Jet"style necklaces with black elements that are in fact stained horn. The advantages of horn were that it was not hard to obtain, it can be shaped not only by carving which takes a longish time but as it softens with heat it can be manipulated into shape such as the rings or chain links with only one cut, it can be pressed when heated to take relief designs, and it can be polished shiny. I also notice on the pieces I have that there is a certain translucency in some places -rather dark but brownish (like old sepia photographs).
One necklace I have (shown on p 25 of the Bead Jewellery Book lower right with ribbon ties) is made of pressed horn units, vulcanite links AND "bog oak"beads!
I scarcely need to tell you that a red hot needle yields that horrid scorching smell...
When casein is hot-point tested, it also yields a nasty "burning hair" smell. It is sometimes difficult to distinguish between horn and casein. From the 1970s, I had some antique translucent faceted beads, given to me as "amber"—that for years I thought were horn. But they are casein....
Jamey
Hi WenP
It is very glossy/shiny, and I agree with Stef that the chunky pieces could be real Whitby jet, but vulcanite was often polished to a high lustre and although it never appears quite as shiny as jet, it can appear very shiny when it is new, and if it has not deteriorated over the years it can still retain a high lustre. It was particularly used in the later 19th century in the UK to imitate jet, especially jewellery, so we do see more of it over here.
What are important are the links, so have a look at Muller's figure 7.11 where specimen vulcanite links are shown - they nearly always have one slit and could be sprung open and closed when new. Real jet chains are made of either solid links with no slits, or with two slits where they have to be pinned and glued together (as in Muller's fig 5.32).
The image here is a genuine vulcanite chain and you can not only see some of the single slits, but also that this one has a characteristic yellowish tinge from the highly lustred black surface deteriorating over the years from what it originally looked like. Although it originally would have looked like a jet chain, it doesn't now, whereas real jet would not have altered.
I will try and look out some vulcanite beads whose surface hasn't changed as much as this.
Carole
Thanks to all for the ideas. A couple of the segments have small chips. Does that look more like jet? Some links have rather sloppy glued repairs.
