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Puzzling Chinese charm Haskell-style necklace
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Posted by: beadiste Post Reply
04/03/2023, 19:11:10

This arrived today, an auction purchase. I was considering taking it apart for the cloisonne beads, but upon loupe examination all components appear to be original and intact.

And there's no glass or plastic. The carved rose is coral. As is the small seed bead. The other non-metallic beads are canarium nut, rudraksha seed, deteriorated copal[amber doesn't get dandruffy like that?], ivory, turquoise, serpentine, rock crystal, amethyst, carnelian, and smoky quartz.

One of the cloisonne beads has the curious feature of apparently being enameled, but not subequently ground and polished. Firepolished.

I have other examples of this exact chain and clasp on other Chinese charm necklaces, as well as the stone components. If anyone's interested, let me know, and I'll post pix.

I tend to think of these things as being popular in the late 1930s-early 1940s - Japan's invasion of Manchuria and China, Madame Chiang Kai-sheks speech to Congress, etc. - China was in the news.

Apart from the stamped filigree findings and brass heart, the question seems to be whether these necklaces and bracelets were the product of a Chinese workshop - Hong Kong? Peking/Peiping? Shanghai? - or assembled somewhere else with Chinese stone and cloisonne beads.

And if they actually might date closer to the 1920s, when China was a tourist destination despite the civil conflict and warlords.

The crappy photos are the auctioneer's.

Thoughts, anyone?

CharmNeklace_Mar2023.jpg (62.2 KB)  CharmNeklace_Mar2023a.jpg (98.2 KB)  


Modified by beadiste at Mon, Apr 03, 2023, 19:17:00

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Interested (!)
Re: Puzzling Chinese charm Haskell-style necklace -- beadiste Post Reply Edit Forum Where am I?
Posted by: Beadman Post Reply
04/04/2023, 08:31:27

Hello Chris,

This certainly does look Haskell in-style. Is there any reason to suppose that Chinese manufacturers copied her look? Or that her look was a copy of Chinese export wares?

I bought two Haskell necklaces explicitly to take them apart to harvest the cloisonné beads. I sort of regret that now. But I eventually traded two of the three beads I acquired to a mutual friend of ours anyway. And he certainly has few qualms about cannibalizing a Haskell necklace for the more-desirable beads. (Having done this many times.) So it's not-unheard-of practice.

I have made the assumption that many of Haskell's metal findings are European rather than Asian. Do you think some are Asian (Chinese)? I'm referring to the stamped filigree elements that are typical of her work.

I would be happy to see other specimens you have documented.

JDA.



Modified by Beadman at Tue, Apr 04, 2023, 08:32:00

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5 necklaces, same clasp, similar charms & findings
Re: Interested (!) -- Beadman Post Reply Edit Forum Where am I?
Posted by: beadiste Post Reply
04/04/2023, 13:23:01

Plus two necklaces featuring those oval cloisonne pendants/beads with findings that seem identical to those used in the box clasp necklaces.

My current hypothesis is that someone in China made charm necklaces featuring Chinese stones, cinnabar, cloisonne and silver filigree in the style used for Chinese necklaces but adapted for foreign tourists. [see blog post link - http://www.beadiste.com/2015/12/puzzling-evidence-deco-chinese-charm.html]

Perhaps some of these foreign tourists - Miriam Haskell, for a prime example -
bought a supply of similar Chinese components, and made a raft of necklaces, bracelets, and brooches using them.

Helen Burton evidently made a trip to Rhode Island in the late 1930s (will have to re-find this source) and sold a bunch of things. Maybe whatever the East Coast costume jewelry workshop responsible for this jewelry - if it was indeed a workshop there instead of China or Europe - stocked up from her?

And when WWII intervened to cut supply lines to Asia, substituted wood and "Bakelite" and glass components to continue this "Chinese charms" look.

SAM_2421_BCN.jpg (249.3 KB)  Cloisonne1940_001.jpg (158.7 KB)  

Related link: http://www.beadiste.com/2015/12/puzzling-evidence-deco-chinese-charm.html

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#3 - Jade rings & cloisonne
Re: 5 necklaces, same clasp, similar charms & findings -- beadiste Post Reply Edit Forum Where am I?
Posted by: beadiste Post Reply
04/04/2023, 13:24:09

DragonsJadeRings_-_Copy.jpg (127.2 KB)  DragonsJadeRings2_-_Copy.jpg (128.5 KB)  


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#4 Carved canarium nut lohans
Re: 5 necklaces, same clasp, similar charms & findings -- beadiste Post Reply Edit Forum Where am I?
Posted by: beadiste Post Reply
04/04/2023, 13:25:15

FortiesCollectionBrassDropCarvedPitNOTE_Same_Chain_and_Clasp_as_Oval_Cloisonne_Necklace.JPG (88.5 KB)  FortiesCollectionBrassDropCarvedPitSameChainandClaspasOvalCloisonneBeadsA.JPG (59.1 KB)  


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#5 - extravagant necklace & bracelet set
Re: 5 necklaces, same clasp, similar charms & findings -- beadiste Post Reply Edit Forum Where am I?
Posted by: beadiste Post Reply
04/04/2023, 13:26:07

rubyLaneNecklaceBracelet_BCN.jpg (216.5 KB)  


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Oval cloisonne pendants & findings
Re: 5 necklaces, same clasp, similar charms & findings -- beadiste Post Reply Edit Forum Where am I?
Posted by: beadiste Post Reply
04/04/2023, 13:27:20

Two versions of same concept. Same findings.

OpenworkOvalDragonPendantsA.JPG (135.9 KB)  OvalPendants_BCN.jpg (178.1 KB)  


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I re-read Helen Burton's letter she wrote upon returing to China after WWII
Re: Interested (!) -- Beadman Post Reply Edit Forum Where am I?
Posted by: beadiste Post Reply
04/04/2023, 13:54:08

Sent stuff to Rhode Island in 1937:
'I don't know why I was so lucky,’ she said, ‘but at the end of 1943 I was among those prisoners exchanged. The little money that I had hidden had been found by the Japanese, who searched us thoroughly. But I never believe in keeping all my eggs in one basket and some time before internment I had sent some of my stock to Honolulu and some to Rhode Island. How I wish I had sent more!’

She did put jewelry together.

I'll go back once more to Mr. Lo, who is one of the
reasons why so many of us admire the Chinese race. With his help
I've had the fun of doing a bit of creative work. One day he
brought me hundreds of old white jade Manchu earrings and I made
15 chokers of distinction, hanging them on a woven silver chain and
producing a bit of jewelry of which some of you would heartily
approve. Another day he found a collection of old blue enamel
plaques - all sizes and shapes. I made belts, buttons and pins
which should appeal to those who love the touch of blue in
unusual jewelry.

And she was very well-connected.

Follow the link in the first paragraph to the PDF bio of Helen Burton written by Don Menzies.

http://www.beadiste.com/2013/11/puzzling-evidence-helen-burton.html


Related link: http://www.beadiste.com/2013/11/puzzling-evidence-helen-burton.html

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For comparison, what seems like a charms necklace of Chinese manufacture
Re: Interested (!) -- Beadman Post Reply Edit Forum Where am I?
Posted by: beadiste Post Reply
04/04/2023, 13:59:30

Silver is now blackened with age. Note typical filigree components and all stones being "real," not glass or plastic (with the possible exception of that aqua rose, can't remember what it is)

3_DecoSilverChina_001.jpg (142.0 KB)  


Modified by beadiste at Tue, Apr 04, 2023, 14:00:58

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