we had a class years ago with members of the Bead Society of Great Britain taught by Jamey Allen. some of his creations are shown here- also beads by Akiko Kase, little egg-shaped characters by Cynthia Toops, and i'm not sure who designed the 2 face beads or the others...

Also by Cynthia Toops

I got to meet her and her husband years ago in Keene NH. Very sweet people, and they both do exquisite work, her in polymer, he in glass.

I have a pendant by Jamey from that Egyptian series. :)

Hello, you sent me on a Quest to find a bag from maybe 15 years ago of these Fimo Pendants/Beads...They are beginning to get a dull surface now- what to do? (I moistened them for the pics). Sorry raining and no good light. See attached small Imgur Album:

IMGUR Album- scroll down: https://imgur.com/a/02MwnLu

Try spraying them with ArmorAll. The purpose of ArmorAll is to renew poylvinyl chloride. I would routinely use this on my beads and art, to protect them from ultraviolet. It also provides a nice sheen that is not too glossy.

Jamey

Jamey is onto a good idea to help protect PVC beads and also enhance the sheen. I checked the Safety Data Sheet for ArmorAll's original formula, and found that the main ingredient is mineral oil, at less than 5% of the mixture. Unfortunately the other 95% is not specified - companies are allowed to do this - but the formula as a whole is designated "not hazardous". That doesn't exactly mean "non-toxic" -and the SDS says to avoid prolonged contact with the skin.

The ArmorAll website says their products contain surfactants and water-based silicone emulsions, and do not contain any petroleum products - which is strange since I consider mineral oil a petroleum product. So possibly one of the components is slightly irritating, or they are doing the usual CYA that is common in the chemical industry. I'd be sure not to let a child put something coated with ArmorAll in their mouth.

Probably you could get a similar effect by using lip balm that has some SPF protection added, or just use a tiny bit of one of the mineral oil-based eye lubricants if you want to avoid any potentially toxic additives.

Yo Jamey, Thanks for the info on ArmorAll- I bought some on the off chance I ever get around to actually washing & spiffing up my FJ, and I can totally understand why you would recommend it- Great for giving a minimal oil "nurtured" effect & sun protection to dashboards, bumpers, & tires. Thanks!

I have another semi-related question about what to use on Old dull glass beads to enhance the surface color. Learned the hard way not to use petroleum products like a very tiny bit of Vaseline- gets horribly smelly. Most Oils like cooking Oils will breakdown and become Rancid and reek badly (though can be washed off with soap and water).

I read that some Folks use the Pure Palm Oil to temporarily enhance the color of Antique Glass Beads, as it has about a 3-4 year window before breaking down and becoming Rancid. Also I've heard of Walnut Oil use. Typically I have zero interest in "oiling" my Antique Trade Beads, preferring to keep them intact. However on occasion I would like to see the "enriched" colors, get good photos, and gain a deeper understanding of the basic bead color before the haze of wear & tear & age interfered.

Thanks, Anne

If you go to a lapidary supply store you can buy Diamond Trim Saw Oil.

This stuff is great for nenewing the appearance of decayed glass.

You can rub it on sparringly with your fingertip. Or pur a small amount into a container, and submerge the bead(s) into it. Check overnight. Leave it in for longer is you want to. Blot the bead(s) and allow them to air dry.

I use walnut oil on wood and seeds, It's very good for that. It is terrible for minerals.

For amber I recommend canola oil. (I kid you not.) This is what they used in Germany 100 years ago—because it has the same general specific gravity as Baltic amber, and absorbs well.

Take care. Jamey

Ive used olive oil for glass, amber and whatever looks dried out. I rub some onto my hands and then rub the beads. I originally decided to use it because it generally doesn’t go rancid...

I have used Albolene which is a moisturizing cleanser on all types of trade beads be they old dry trade beads or just beads with a dull look to them. Not only does Albolene help to clean the dirt and grit off it also imparts a very nice sheen to the beads. Even the driest trade bead will look 10x better. Albolene contains mineral oil, petrolatum, paraffin, ceresin and beta carotene. I've used it for years and there is no smell or breakdown of components and the beads still look great.

When we lived in NH, I made a polymer pendant necklace for friends of ours, on leather cord. They returned it twice for to refinish it, which was weird because it looked etched and eroded. Finally, after a very gentle question-and-answer session, I found out the guy loved it so much, he NEVER took it off. And they used their hit tub every night, especially in the winter. I did a little research and discovered the chemicals in the water we're eating away at the polymer. He promised not to do wear it in the hot tub again. Wish I'd known about ArmorAll! Although it probably would have melted off in the hot water....

I got this bead from an African dealer with several other fake Islamic beads.
It is 21 mm diameter. Does not look at all as glass!
Can it be one of these nicely made PVC beads?
If so, who/where/when made it?

I am not fastidious or over-technical. I am mostly concerned by the smell and touch (usually I only apply "dressing" to finished ornaments).

I do not refrain from applying on...
*African trade beads: argan oil (Morocco), Karité butter (tribal ornaments South of Mauritania).
*Tibetan malas: nothing better than contact/rubbing with body oils, also yak butter if available.
*Indian: (Desi) mustard oil for Northern, coconut oil for Southern ones,as a rule of thumb.But more than once,I have caught myself red-handed rubbing musk or other similar aromatic essences on antique golden necklaces, and more than once I went so far as to mix damp agarbatti ashes with a some fat base to gaily enhance a mournful, distressed, criminally bleached piece.

And then...
Take a brand new (yak? cow? camel?) bone bead "mala". It is hideously lifeless, whitish, no shine or luster whatsoever.
A starting point is mechanical stress: rubbing with sand, beating with stones, rubbing against wooden surface, rubbing with wool,
rubbing with the rough side of a piece of leather and what not --for as long as your mind will endure.
Then a henna bath for several days,allowing to dry, repeating it if needed. When dark to taste, cook it under the scorching summer sun, or toast its surface with a cook's torch, or stain it over the flame of a bees wax candle, or a bonfire...
Some more rubbing with sand, or sand paper, also energetically with the smooth side of a piece of leather.
Heal it, poor thing, with an oil of your choice and allow some time for the excess to sink in. Rub with cotton till it looks like you have been wearing it and prayed on it for many years.
Wear it. Use it for japa-yoga. Allow it to enhance your natural glamour.
Sell it!
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Image: recent mala, illustrating the above method. Ancient amazonite and nondescript bone beads, with silver fittings and counters. Strung on a leather thong, without a tassel.

I love that you've found a unique solution for every material and even every culture! And the necklace in the photo is now even more beautiful, know all the work that went into making it so. Sounds like a bead cookbook! 🤗

I love that you've found a unique solution for every material and even every culture! And the necklace in the photo is now even more beautiful, know all the work that went into making it so. Sounds like a bead cookbook! 🤗