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Some help requested with dating a necklace
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Posted by: Rosanna Post Reply
02/27/2018, 08:52:45

I just acquired this necklace with phenolic beads and would appreciate any input about the possible date of assembly. I'm still very focused on dating the introduction of imitation amber beads made of phenolic resin into the African trade, so I found this particular necklace intriguing.

The colored disks are not the usual vinyl - they are Celluloid. I haven't researched Celluloid as much as I have the phenolics, but I believe Celluloid was still in widespread use for beads, jewelry, pen bodies, etc up to 1950, and maybe beyond. However the use of Celluloid disks suggests a date no later than the 40s.

The Venetian beads are definitely pre-1950. The coconut disks are smooth and worn.

The stringing material is a double strand of coated wire. The wire is two strands twisted together. One strand is broken, and it appears that the clear plastic coating is weathered. Does anyone know when this type of coated wire first became available?

That leaves the clasp, a nice solid brass screw-type. it is robust, about 7.8 mm diameter, and has separate pegs with loops on the ends -for attaching the string- that feed through the body of the clasp. Any ideas about the vintage?

RFPFVenetianFeb2018.jpg (46.7 KB)  RFPFVenetianFeb2018a.jpg (31.4 KB)  


Modified by Rosanna at Tue, Feb 27, 2018, 15:34:45

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Close-up of disks & beads
Re: Some help requested with dating a necklace -- Rosanna Post Reply Edit Forum Where am I?
Posted by: Rosanna Post Reply
02/27/2018, 08:53:26

RFPFVenetianFeb2018b.jpg (29.2 KB)  


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I recollect selling brass clasps like this in the 1990s
Re: Some help requested with dating a necklace -- Rosanna Post Reply Edit Forum Where am I?
Posted by: beadiste Post Reply
02/27/2018, 11:49:37

Based only upon personal observation from taking apart vintage necklaces, earlier twisted "jeweler's wire" aka "tigertail" doesn't seem to have had the plastic coating characteristic of wires sold in the later decades of the 20th century. Also fewer wires in the older twisted cables - 3 to 7, IIRC.

Guessing this is a comparatively recent design assembled from older beads from the African trade.



Modified by beadiste at Tue, Feb 27, 2018, 11:50:03

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Thanks- or could be a restringing of an original design, age unknown...
Re: I recollect selling brass clasps like this in the 1990s -- beadiste Post Reply Edit Forum Where am I?
Posted by: Rosanna Post Reply
02/27/2018, 16:53:14

The seller was no help at all, says the necklace was a gift and does not seem to be able to ask the giver.



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wire, Tigertail etc
Re: I recollect selling brass clasps like this in the 1990s -- beadiste Post Reply Edit Forum Where am I?
Posted by: stefany Post Reply
02/28/2018, 02:55:17

Tigertail - nylon-coated fine stainless steel wire cable we sold in my shop from mid 1980s, the early versions were rather stiff and kinked easily. it had been originally intended for fishing line for large heavy fish... and certain kinds of rigging for sailing boats -and aerials etc on satellites, we were told.
it wouldn't knot and had to be clamped.

then all the fancy nylon-coated cable was developed for jewellery that is so over-used now because it makes threading seem easy-

Previously 1930s-50s a lot of the short Bohemian/Czech necklaces were threaded on actual wire (came on cards for threading necklaces) which kinked, rusted, scratched your neck and was generally horrible...

some of the quality bead jewellery of that time used a very very skinny chain- either foxtail or simple tiny joined links. then the clasp could be permanently soldered in place.

antique costume jewellery clasps are great to re-use because they are generally much better made than new ones.



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Close-ups of the coated wire - it was knotted
Re: wire, Tigertail etc -- stefany Post Reply Edit Forum Where am I?
Posted by: Rosanna Post Reply
02/28/2018, 20:55:43

I was able to expose the knots - seems like this is the type of wire made for stringing, from roughly the 1990s onwards. So that matches Chris' dating of the brass screw clasp.

Too bad, I was hoping for some evidence of a pre-WWII construction.

Thanks to all for your help!

RFWireKnotaFeb2018.jpg (44.7 KB)  RFWireKnotbFeb2018.jpg (35.3 KB)  


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it was knotted
Re: Close-ups of the coated wire - it was knotted -- Rosanna Post Reply Edit Forum Where am I?
Posted by: birdi Post Reply
03/01/2018, 06:06:23

In the 1980s I often saw necklaces with knotted wire on the ends. Sometimes they were crimped, yet the wire still protruded. The wire pokes into the neck of the wearer, hence many of them ended up at thrift stores.



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