| Original Message: Some Days In Napoli |
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Continuing from May 9th. Maggie and I made our way up the Italian boot, headed to Naples, but stopping the first evening at Locanda di Alia where there is a nice resort hotel. In Naples, we stayed at a hostel for travelers/students, that is up four flights of marble stairs (with LOTS of heavy luggage in tow). We settled in, and walked around for a while. By the way, Naples is much more beautiful and fun than most of us might be given to believe—and the Neapolitan people are pleasant and generous. And the food is great too. Our primary goals for Naples included a trip to the Archaeological Museum (where a magnificent Ancient Amber show is currently up), to visit Herculaneum (an ancient city site similar to Pompei, with amazing mosaics and frescos), and to visit the industry in Torre del Greko where traditional cameos are still carved, and coral beads made. On out first full day in Naples, we went to the Archaeology museum, and spent the first part in the wing that holds the ancient Egyptian and Roman Period artifacts. Probably you all may not be much interested in seeing photos of statues, but I learned something I think is rather interesting, and for all I know affects all of the antiquities held in this institution. In Rome, I was pretty disappointed by the statuary. (I have already said they didn't have many beads nor much jewelry.) The statues in Naples, in contrast, are quite wonderful—to my surprise. Rome has a lot of bad copies of Greek statues. Naples has the better copies as well as real Greek statues. I learned that this is because way back when antiquities were not generally popular, a gentleman was placed in-charge of them, and given free range to place ancient things where he liked. As a Neapolitan, he put many of the best pieces in Naples, and rather less good pieces elsewhere. Thus when Aldo, Maggie's friend and our guide, explained this, the situation of statuary in Rome suddenly made sense—and I agreed this was my experience. I do want to begin by showing this bust of a Roman Emperor, that I rather liked a lot. The marble head has been seated in a base carved from what looks like variegated agate in tones of brown. The agate (or whatever it is) is carved to look like the Emperor's toga. It's a brilliant piece. (A similar female statue is close by, that is probably his wife.) Below is a view of this bust, with a close-up of the toga below. The brown stone has crenelated rows and lines in darker and lighter brown hues—and looks for all the world just like agate. But generally, brown agate has been artificially colored, at least since ca. 600 BCE. So, I was intrigued by this artifact, and wish I knew more. (I will have to read the catalogue I bought.) Jamey All rights reserved by Bead Collector Network and its users |
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